Around the World in 50 Courts — Some Unusual Ones
There were two trips abroad in 2007 and these will result in three stories because one will be solely devoted to Hardwick and its especially colorful history.
In late May and early June, I went back to England to play 6 courts that were new to me, two that were not and another that is likely to offend court-counting purists.
Ambassador Grassi and Mrs. Pell came along. This was still the MapQuest era when you had to know exactly where you were starting and where are you were going, or the turn-by-turn paper directions would all be for naught. One roundabout does end up looking rather like another, and following the directions for one, which is in fact another, reminds one of early explorers, who feared falling off the flat side of the earth.
Those who design computer software sometimes like to use their customers as beta-testers, though this practice is rarely revealed. When the software in question relates to mapping, the consequences can range from unexpected to fairly serious. For example, it took some doing for the mappers to recognize that there was a difference between an over the road truck pulling two trailers and a Mini Minor. This became apparent when we came to a stop on a long unpaved road/foot path/less than foot path in the middle of a field just short of Melrose in the Borders of Scotland.
After playing at Oxford and having dinner with James and Mary Wyatt (he was the Executive Director of the Tennis & Rackets Association), we headed north to stay with our many times hosts, Francis and Catherine Hamilton, who had moved to Scotland from Oxfordshire.
As you move away from London, the courts become more distant and the ratio of “courts played per miles driven” plummets.
The first goal was Falkland Palace, the only playable court in Scotland and the only outdoor court in the world. There can, and likely should be, a lengthy discussion of the rationale behind building an outdoor court in an inhospitable climate, but, since it was built in about 1539, there are a few remaining decision-makers with whom to have that conversation.
Technically Falkland Palace is a “Jeu Carré,” which differs from court tennis by adding some features and omitting others. Unsurprisingly, given its climate and age, it has been rebuilt many times and some features might well have been changed.
In the early 1990s, when we were re-creating the United States Court Tennis Preservation Foundation, a tax examiner asked about the useful life of a court tennis court. Thinking of Falkland, I replied, “about 450 years… so far, but that was an outdoor one in Scotland, so it could well be more.” I am not sure what the tax examiner thought either of my answer or of me (actually I suspect I do know about the latter), but we did receive his seal of approval.
When playing a new court, especially as you get closer to the goal of playing them all, there is a sense of anticipation – excitement even — as you get closer to the next one. I bet birdwatchers feel the same way.
In the case of Falkland, the anticipation was during the 80-mile drive from Melrose past Edinburgh to the Palace itself. A sunny day turned drizzly and I spent much of the hour and a half in the car thinking this is one of the hardest courts in the world to arrange and I am about to get rained down. I recall being a very quiet passenger, but the sun re-emerged just as we neared our destination.
A damp playing surface was of no consequence whatever as the balls were rubber and unique to that venue. The walls and floor were quite rough, and the game involving Hamilton, Grassi, Pell and Falkland Real Tennis Club Chairman, Simon Sanders, had more to do with sightseeing, picture taking and box checking then with vigorous competition. Of course, we tried for some of the winning shots that exist only at Falkland and this resulted in several balls being hit over the wall. Visitors to the palace were a bit surprised to see gentlemen in tennis whites emerging from an unusual building to retrieve them while they had their lunch. We were surprised to see Sanders hop on his motorcycle and wave goodbye as he sped off after our game.
For some unfathomable reason, the Ladies Hamilton and Pell chose to focus on the swallows swooping under the penthouses to return to their nests rather than our games playing. Yet another benefit of an open-air court. There was an afternoon visit to St. Andrews to see the St. Leonard’s School where Catherine had been Head Girl, the University and the famous golf course where we joined them for lunch. St. Andrews is also the site of the “running on the beach” scene in Chariots of Fire.
There have been other courts in Scotland, but austerity of demeanor is no friend to court tennis.
When Francis Hamilton moved to Scotland, he brought his court development skills from Washington with him. He made a valiant, though ultimately unsuccessful, effort to restore a court at Troon. The property was owned by a nursing home operator, but the court itself was designated a “listed building,” which, for historical reasons, could not be torn down. The nursing home operator was faced with a white elephant in the middle of his property, and he was not inclined to let anyone else enjoy it, as this would have worsened his problem. It appears that he is simply letting it rot in the hope it will fall down of its own weight.
Hamilton also guided an effort, with friends from Edinburgh, to build a court at a cricket club in town. That looked promising until it ran afoul of a member vote requirement. Like austerity of demeanor, member votes are no friends of court developments. There were some other potential sites, but none came to fruition and Edinburgh remains bereft of the game. On the day of our tour of these potential sites, Francis took us to “The New Club” for lunch, so named because it was only formed in the mid-1700’s.
The drive from Melrose to Newcastle upon Tyne is 70 or 80 miles depending on how you go. It is some of the most beautifully desolate countryside I have ever seen, especially the Northumberland National Park. It would be a fabulous bike ride but, given the hills, it might require a brisk start to do it in a day.
Such an idea would have been far-fetched for that day, given the preference for collegiality among fellow travelers, but it is not entirely unrealistic.
A small group of British professionals decided to play every court in England and Scotland and to travel by bicycle from each to the other. I believe they accomplished it, and I’d be happy to join them if they did it again. It wouldn’t be “a first” or “an only,” but I’d stand a good chance of being the oldest.
The court at Newcastle is called Jesmond Dene, and it has one of the highest and most beautiful ceilings in the world.
Hamilton, Grassi and Pell were joined by Hamilton’s son, Tom, then a student at the University of Newcastle.
The next day, Catherine Hamilton saw off her husband and the two Americans, while Simmy Pell followed her example by flying home from Edinburgh rather than continuing the tennis jihad. Much discussion of, “such fun, prior commitments and let’s do it again,” but they clearly thought we were nuts. As I write this, I can think of no compelling counter argument.
Farewell waves and kisses were followed by a drive south to Manchester for a couple of hours of doubles with Jamie Bebb followed by dinner at the Manchester Tennis and Racquet Club. It is a lovely place with both a tennis and a rackets court. We hit a few balls there as well.
Americans might not be entirely familiar with the rituals of port. This can be costly because, if the rituals are not precisely followed, fines can be levied. The fines might include whatever anyone at the table can think of, and given the long history of the custom at that club, there were many penalties to draw upon, including additional drams, money damages, the entire dinner check or feats of daring.
First, the decanter must only go around the table in one direction. If I recall correctly, it is clockwise.
Second, the progress of the port must never stop. It must be passed from hand to hand, with glass refilling as needed. In Manchester, this is “encouraged” by the use of a crystal decanter with a pointy bottom. You could not rest it on the table if you wanted to.
Manchester’s “Gentlemen’s Changing Room” includes a sign in the loo that is the finest example of understatement I have ever seen. With luck someone will add the exact words or a photograph in the comments, but the gist is an admonition to make appropriate use of the brush “should the need arise.”
Manchester to London is a reasonable drive and, when we got there, we split up the lodging. Temple Grassi went to stay with Barbara and Donald Carse, Francis with London friends and I spent a week with Chris and Lesley Ronaldson at Hampton Court Palace.
The major event of the time in London was the 1812 Cup an event named for the unpleasantness between England and our young country that led to the burning of the White House.
The 1812 Cup is the creation of Greg Van Schaack and Bill Colegrave, who organize teams to play multiple matches against each other, have festive dinners and make amusing references to Red Coats and Colonists. Of course, there are renditions of Johnny Horton’s “The Battle of New Orleans.”
Francis Hamilton played for the English side while Temple Grassi and I played for the Americans. Francis was most noteworthy as he is a direct descendent of Robert Ross (later Ross of Bladensburg, a Maryland suburb of Washington), who led the British attack on our capital. Somewhere along the way, Ross perished, and his body was shipped to Halifax in a barrel of rum.
The sword surrendered to him by American Commodore Barney at the end of the Battle of Bladensburg survived and Francis donated it to the Navy War Museum in Washington some years later. An after-action accommodation between Ross and Barney delayed the progress toward Washington and saved many lives.
Over the years we have had a number of players from the British Embassy as members in Washington. Some were Military and Defense Attachés. There are periodic matches played between them and our American members for the Ross Barney Trophy.
That might or might not have been the first time I played on the two courts at Queens Club, but it was the most memorable. With several prior trips to London, it seems inconceivable that I had not played there, but I could find no clear references in my travel records. Hence this is it. Queens became courts number 41 and 42 – among the very last – to be played, despite Queen’s being one of the most famous court tennis venues in the world.
There is a court in England that is not open to the public. It is owned by a member of the Saudi Royal Family.
Fairlawne and Greentree have much in common. Both are privately owned and were once made available for play to friends and subscribers. Fairlawne is now used once a year, with Chris Ronaldson organizing the outings. Greentree is less generous. The Kent countryside southeast of London bears no resemblance whatever to Manhasset, Long Island, at least until you get inside the gates.
At Fairlawne, you get to visit the tennis court, change and play, but you only see the main house from afar. The court itself is in reasonable condition, but there are soft spots in the walls where plaster has pulled away from the underlying structure.
As I recall, Fairlawne had the fluffiest towels I have ever seen. Each one stood nearly 6 inches high when folded on the shelf.
The Cazalet family, descended from émigré French Huguenots, earned their fortune in Russia, bought the property in the 1870s and built the court. Victor Cazalet, who died in a 1943 plane crash with General Sikorski, was the godfather of Elizabeth Taylor. His brother, Peter, who inherited the estate, trained horses for both the Queen and the Queen Mother.
A few of us got together for dinner that evening at the Hurlingham Club in London. They have been trying to build a court tennis court there for about 150 years, but club politics has always gotten in the way.
It is tempting but churlish to tease the current advocates of a court tennis court at that fine club by saying, “ours might have taken a long time, but at least we finished it in the same century as we began.”
On many occasions, the temptation has been too great, and I have succumbed to churlishness.
For example, here is a picture of the Hurlingham Court, 150 years in the making.
Now that was churlish.
If you ask a court tennis player if he has played at Hartham Park or Knightshayes, the answers will fall into two categories. The less experienced will answer “no,” while those with greater tenure in the game will ask, “are there courts there?”
Technically, the answer is no, but there are stické courts in each, the only two playable ones on earth. Apparently, there are also remains of a stické court in India, but it is unplayable. The name stické comes from the Greek sphairistiké, which means “skill in playing at ball.” Major Walter Clopton Wingfield borrowed the Greek name for the game he invented that evolved into lawn tennis.
Like Falkland Palace, the court at Hartham Park is a cousin game to court tennis with an interesting provenance. British soldiers were often posted far from home and some of them must have missed their games. The most imaginative of these discovered artillery targets, which were 9 ft.² reinforced wood panels. These could be lined up side-by-side and one on top of the other to create a comparable shoebox effect to a court tennis court. It was even possible to create a penthouse along one side, but not on the ends as that would have required mitering, which presumably exceeded the carpentry skills of the young artilleryman.
There are none of the openings that characterize a court tennis court nor is there a tambour as those features would also have required for more carpentry skills than were at hand.
The game must originally have been played with standard tennis rackets and balls, but now the custom is to use balls that have been depressurized by spearing them with ice picks, and rackets strung to the tension of butterfly nets.
The stické expedition included Ambassador Grassi, Vaughan Williams, noted slayer of stoats from an earlier episode, Francis Hamilton, John Mears and me. Our host was Geoff Thomas who had bought the house for use as an event venue.
There are about 25 court tennis courts for every stické court and perhaps 75 to 100 times more players. News of our arrival had spread, and a few of the stické enthusiasts turned out to meet the “court tennis delegation.” It was as if we were the International Olympic Committee and, perhaps to them, it might have appeared that we were. They asked all sorts of questions about how our game had become so big and so successful.
Stické itself is far easier than court tennis and is similar to lawn tennis from which it draws its rules. The primary differences between lawn tennis and stické are the sidewalls that are in play and the serve, which must travel along the sloping penthouse as in court tennis.
Unlike court tennis, the stické players take turns serving and they serve from either end. The best doubles teams include a left-hander who serves from one end and a right hander who serves from the other. If you are right-handed and have coveted a court tennis railroad serve, which must be served awkwardly to impart the desired spin, definitely try stické in which you can serve it normally but from the “wrong” end.
Sometimes it is nice to be reminded that, no matter how small or obscure your game might be, there is usually one that is even smaller and more obscure. It would love to be what you are.
John Austin Murphy, January 28, 2021 at 4:30 pm said:
Excellent report. Much enjoyed.
[Johnny’s lyrics come to mind: “In 1814 we took a little trip; along with Colonel Jackson down the mighty Mississip.”]
Haven Pell, January 28, 2021 at 5:08 pm said:
You scared me. I went back to check the link to the song on YouTube and it works. Phew.
Mike, January 28, 2021 at 6:11 pm said:
Well written Haven. Maybe a tour and rundown of the racquetball courts of American municipal rec centers is worth considering. Something for us Ham/Wen boys….
Haven Pell, January 29, 2021 at 8:32 am said:
The Pundificator is deeply devoted to its “Reeg Readers” and would happily accept this challenge. Unfortunately there are probably more Racketball courts in Boston than there are court tennis courts in the world. Now, Padel, on the other hand…..
Steve Hufford, January 28, 2021 at 6:21 pm said:
Thanks to the occasionally churlish author and world traveler for another fun read!
Haven Pell, January 29, 2021 at 8:33 am said:
Thank you Steve. We have yet to hear from any Hurlingham members.
Temple Grassi, January 28, 2021 at 6:46 pm said:
comments on the courts
Falkland- I have been there twice and both times have been fortunate to get on court because it didn’t rain! The time with Haven was fun but the first time -well, like the St Pauli Girl beer add-‘you never forget your first girl! June of some year in the 1990s and I was ‘studying’ at Oxford-through a UNC Alumni group I was taking a Jane Austen course! Not kidding-I was the only ‘fella’ in the class and it was really interesting complete with side trips to ‘JA’ sites. I now know what a ‘haha’ is -do you? Class in the morning-real tennis at Merton in the afternoon! Well, over a weekend ,I took the train from Oxford to Lady Bank, Scotland- the nearest depot to Falkland. Found a taxi and a ‘b and b’ near Falkland and
by prior arrangement met a group of real tennis players at a country pub . The scene should have been in a movie! Me, the Yank, came out of a driving rain storm into the quaint country pub with a group of about 10 Scots waiting for me just because I am was/am a tennis player! A fabulous time ensued with the haggis,the whiskey, songs, and tennis stories galore. After dinner, I was driven back to the b and b by a very attractive ‘lassie’ in her snappy white sports car…..don’t worry-nothing happened! Lucky me, the rain let up and the next day we played set after set in the most storied of all courts (well, maybe not, but the most unusual- a stone floor, no dedans, lunes, and a four foot high green board in one corner that if you hit it, you get the point! It is called the ‘aise’ and it is the derivation of ‘ace’ -who knew? One year at The Boomerrang Tournament in Melbourne there was a team from Falkland and it was fun listening to their cheer, “Up – The Palace!’
Jesemond Dene- I believe our 4th was Francis Hamilton’s son, Tom who was student at New Castle University. Highest ceiling in the game – great for lobs!!!!!
Manchester- we had a 3pm match and we were invited at noon ! Cocktails, roast beef with all the trimmings,red wine, cheese, and the port! Ah yes, the port -Haven has already mentioned it, but I was the one who got in trouble, Talking (as I sometimes do!) to my lunch partner on my left, I heard this one ‘bloke’ say, ‘If you were a member, you would be fined!’ You see, the port was stopped by my right elbow so no one else could have any! Fi Fi For Shame!
a ‘shout out’ here to
Aldonna Greenwood -terrific young lady who started playing at the same time as my oldest daughter, Melissa- wish she still played
Jamie Bebb – genuine ‘bad boy’- good fun!
Brendan Hagarty- here comes the judge -travels the world – have ‘partenered ‘ with him quite a few times
After the lunch they rolled out a whole team of fresh players and they ‘had their way’ with us -the gullible guests!
Queen’s – fabulous club – has all the racquet sports including grass ‘lawners’ courts. I left part of my gear there in the changing room (not the locker room!), went back the next day to retrieve it and the attendant had it all washed and folded for me- he said , I knew you would be back!’
Fairlawne- been there twice- when your tennis professional is Chris Ronaldson’s (exWorld Champ and long time pro at Hampton Court) son you get to go places that are special. The web site of The Tennis and Racquet Association in The UK doesn’t even list Fairlawne! Chatted with the Manager of the estate and Jim Zug about opening the court to Tunbridge School ( 5 minute drive) and let the students play- it hasn’t happened -yet!
Hurlingham- been there quite few times- probably the most difficult private club to get into in the world and wouldn’t you now their Admission Director at the time was a tennis player-John Edwards ( RIP). John and his wife Olive had been to our Cherry Blossom Tournament here in DC and stayed with Ellie and me a couple of times. He had no interest in ‘seeing the sights’ in DC (Washington Monument, The Mall, Smithsonian,etc) ‘Temple’, he said , ‘what I really want to see are your clubs!!! ‘ A man after my own heart!
Sticke- wish I could show it to you , but at Prince’s Court is a framed certificate certifying that Temple Grassi is ranked in the top 100 sticke players in the whole wide world!
Temple Grassi, January 29, 2021 at 6:52 am said:
About 15 years ago there was an incident. A ball that ‘flew’ out of the court hit a child in the garden. The child was OK but obviously terrified. The family contacted the Scottish National Trust ( they run the place) and the SNT closed the court from 10am-4pm ( the garden hours) so one could only play tennis before 10am and after 4pm. 😤
A couple of years later , I’m in NYC playing tennis and I notice that there is a private party going on. Being a curious sort, I asked one of the staff who the group was? The Scottish National Trust! Oh, I think – SNT in NYC? the ‘head person’ must be there looking for 💰
Into the party I go, meet the ‘head person’, explain that the Falkland court has been open since about 1520 and only one person has been hit in all these years. The playing hours were restored!
The careful observer of Haven’s pictures of the court will notice the green aise in the corner- have a look
Haven Pell, January 29, 2021 at 8:45 am said:
Well played, Temple. “I seen my oppuhtoonities and I took ’em.”
Haven Pell, January 29, 2021 at 8:38 am said:
Thank you Temple, As you know these stories will become a book and the comments will be a source of additional material. Much that I did not know.
Chip Oat, January 28, 2021 at 6:50 pm said:
Haven Pell, January 29, 2021 at 8:38 am said:
Thanks Chip, glad you liked it.
Richard Meyer, January 29, 2021 at 1:01 am said:
Haven: Best column yet!!
“ They fired their guns and the British kept a-coming”
Haven Pell, January 29, 2021 at 8:41 am said:
The images on the YouTube link were fun too. Thanks Richard
Ian Harris, January 29, 2021 at 4:06 am said:
Wonderful piece, thanks. I haven’t yet had the opportunity to try all of those places, but have tried several of them and shall resume my own wanderings once circumstances allow. I guess I need to add stické to my list of things to try. Thanks again.
Haven Pell, January 29, 2021 at 8:42 am said:
There is another stické court to play and I would like to add that to the list. Have fun doing it and keep better records than I did.
Ian Harris, January 30, 2021 at 2:48 am said:
I do indeed, Haven. I “Ogblog” my encounters contemporaneously, e.g.
Temple Grassi, January 30, 2021 at 8:11 am said:
What a fabulous report on your day at Falkland! Every tennis player should make the effort to go there not only to play but to get a history lesson! When we first opened Prince’s Court in 1997 ( Falkland 1521 hmmmm!), an article was written about it starting off with the following: ‘If you want to experience what life was like in the 17th Century, just climb the stairs and enter the portals of Prince’s Court!’
Your spelling of ais is correct- my spelling is incorrect- aise
How about this one ? is it rest, reste, wrest, or wreste and where does that term originate? Important matters!
come to our reopening-stay tuned!
Haven Pell, January 30, 2021 at 11:19 am said:
Good question on the spelling of “reste” and its origin. I’d love to know the answer
Haven Pell, January 30, 2021 at 11:17 am said:
Some have suggested that there be a website organized by court on which travelers could post their musings. Sort of a worldwide guest book.
Temple Grassi, January 30, 2021 at 2:34 pm said:
two theories on ‘reste’/’wreste’
1. a servant would serve the ball and then hop up into the last gallery until the point was over. If the ball went back and forth a number of times , the servant got to ‘reste’ (Old English)
2. wreste- as in wrestle
Allan Chalmers in London can answer all questions such as these- he knows everything!
Haven Pell, January 31, 2021 at 4:13 pm said:
Seek him out and guide us, Mr. Ambassador
Ian Harris, February 02, 2021 at 2:06 pm said:
The earliest book about Tennis in English A Treatise on Tennis By a Member of the Tennis Club, now attributed to Robert Lukin. On page 101 of the Treatise (p113 of the pdf linked) the author defines Reste and explains his take on its French origins. https://ia801300.us.archive.org/2/items/ATreatiseOnTennisByAMemberOfTheTennisClub1822/A%20Treatise%20on%20Tennis%2C%20by%20a%20Member%20of%20the%20Tennis%20Club%201822.pdf
It might not be a correct spelling/attribution but it is the first in English.
Haven Pell, February 02, 2021 at 3:38 pm said:
What a resource. Thank you. Glad to have a link on this site and look forward to reading it.
Ian Harris, February 02, 2021 at 4:31 pm said:
You might also enjoy Julian Marshall’s Annals of Tennis from 1878. He shifted the spelling to “rest” and explains it with a similar link to the French “oscillation” word. See p179 of his book (p257/312 of the Hathi Trust on-line facsimile linked here):
I too found the possibilities of wrest (i.e. the root of wrestle) enticing but suspect that it is simply another word from a similar French root, as I cannot find any authority for the “w” in the game of tennis.
Haven Pell, February 03, 2021 at 6:07 pm said:
I will add an appendix to the published book on all of these resources. Thank you
Sheila Reilly, February 05, 2021 at 10:54 am said:
Delightful read and photos.
Haven Pell, February 05, 2021 at 6:45 pm said:
Thank you Sheila, if you use the search term “court tennis” you will find several more.
Palmer Page, February 08, 2021 at 5:51 pm said:
Lots of fun !!!
Haven Pell, February 09, 2021 at 1:55 pm said:
Thank you Palmer, I hope you become a regular reader.
Jamie White, February 15, 2021 at 8:36 am said:
Wonderful read. Brings back great memories of playing some of these venues.
Falkland Palace, btw, is not the only outdoor court in the world. There is one on Lambay Island off the coast of Ireland. The island is privately owned, the last I knew by the Baring family, with a wonderful house that had been redesigned by Sir Edwin Lutyens. The court was in rough shape but every year a group from the UK used to head over to string up a net and play. Not sure how often that happens anymore.
Haven Pell, February 15, 2021 at 9:35 am said:
Jamie, Quite so. I tend to think of Lambay as related but not really the same game. I will be writing about my brief encounter with that court in a coming chapter. I have never even seen it.
ROSS CANN, October 19, 2022 at 1:55 pm said:
I am delighted to learn that Real Tennis is considered wildly popular and successful by the adherents of Stické, but I cringe to learn that Pickleball, invented only twenty or so years ago, has over 35,000 courts built in that time.
Haven Pell, October 20, 2022 at 5:13 pm said:
Ross, but would we want our game to be pickleball? Growth is a mixed blessing.